Mobile Home Roofing Kings provides mobile home roofing, manufactured home roof repair, roof overs, and roof coating services in the Sioux Falls, SD area for single-wide, double-wide, and triple-wide homes, whether they sit in a park or on private land. Contact us now for a free estimate.
Mobile home roofing in Sioux Falls, SD costs anywhere from $3,360 to $8,640 on average to roof over or replace the roof on a typical single-wide or small double-wide, and a large double-wide runs higher. The price depends on the size of the home, the roof shape and pitch, the material, whether the old roof comes off, and how much decking or framing work is needed.
Yes, we roof single-wides, double-wides, and triple-wides. Give us the size, like 14x70 or 28x60, when you get in touch.
Yes, we cover the Sioux Falls, SD area. Send us the property address and we'll confirm.
Yes, in most cases. If the full repair has to wait, we can usually cover the spot to keep water out until then.
We need the address, the size of the home, the roof shape, what's on the roof now, and the year it was built. Photos of the roof and any ceiling stains help a lot.
No, as long as we can get to the roof. You can stay inside while we work, but expect some noise.
Yes, but the owner has to approve the work first. Pass along their contact details and we can deal with them directly.
Yes, many parks require it, and some limit work hours or roof height and style. Check with the park office before we schedule the job.
Yes, in most areas a roof over or replacement needs one, while small repairs and coatings often don't. Your local building office or state manufactured housing agency decides, and we can pull the permit for you.
Yes, we give you a written price after looking at the roof. If we find hidden rot once the old roof is open, we show you and agree on the cost before going further.
Yes, if the damage came from a covered event like wind, hail, or a fallen tree. Insurance usually won't pay for a roof that's just worn out. We can give you photos and an estimate for the claim.
Most roof overs and replacements take 1 to 3 days. A full tear-off with decking repairs takes longer, and an attached porch or carport can add a day.
Original factory roofs usually last 15 to 20 years. Metal lasts 30 to 50 years or more, TPO and EPDM about 15 to 25, and coatings 3 to 10 depending on the product. We can tell you roughly how much life yours has left.
When it's worn out all over but the framing is still solid. We repair or coat a sound roof with a few leaks, while soft spots, rotted decking, or sagging usually mean the old roof comes off.
It's a new roof built on top of the old one, usually metal or a TPO or rubber membrane over new insulation. We fix the old roof's problems first, since they can't be reached afterward.
Yes, an insulated metal roof over is the most popular option for mobile homes. We fasten it into the framing, not just the old metal skin, and add extra screws at the edges.
Metal is our usual pick for a roof over because it's light and lasts 30 years or more. TPO and EPDM suit flat roofs, and shingles only work on roofs with enough pitch.
Yes, if the roof is solid and only the surface is worn. A coating won't fix rotted decking, big holes, or sagging, and we'd expect to recoat every 3 to 10 years depending on the product.
For a few small leaks, we patch the seams or fasteners with seam tape and sealant, which costs the least. On a worn roof that's still solid, a coating is the cheapest whole-roof fix. Skip tar and caulk, which trap moisture.
Yes, if the roof has a pitch of at least 2 in 12 and the trusses can carry the weight. Most flat mobile home roofs need metal or a membrane instead, or a new pitched frame before we shingle.
Yes, we install EPDM rubber on flat and low-slope roofs. Any rusted or broken metal underneath gets fixed or covered first.
Yes, usually over insulation board, with the seams and vents heat-welded. White TPO also reflects a lot of summer heat.
Yes, we can frame a peaked roof over a flat one so water runs off. It often needs a permit and an engineer's check because of the added weight.
Yes, it can if a roof over isn't approved the way your state requires. Repairs and coatings generally don't affect it, but a roof over adds weight, and some states require engineer-stamped plans and a permit first. We check that before work starts.
No, not much once there's insulation under the panels.
Yes, small repairs and coatings are fair DIY jobs. A metal roof over has to be fastened into the trusses and matched to your wind zone, so most owners leave that part to us.
Yes, in most cases, if the trusses are sound and the new roof is light, like metal or a membrane. Mobile home trusses carry far less than a site-built roof, so we check the data plate and framing first.
It's usually inside the kitchen sink cabinet, in the main bedroom closet, or near the electrical panel. It lists the roof load and wind zones your home was built for, so send us a photo.
Yes, that's the marriage line, where the two halves meet, and it's one of the most common leak spots. We clean it and reseal it with seam tape and flexible sealant.
Yes, cracked vent boots cause a lot of leaks and are a quick fix.
Yes, we can reseal it, replace it, or take it out and roof over the hole. Old plastic skylights that have yellowed or cracked are usually best removed.
Yes, the rubber washers on roof screws and bolts harden in the sun and let water in. We replace the fasteners and seal around them.
Yes, we can include an attached carport, porch, or addition and flash it into the new roof. Tell us what's attached and roughly how big it is.
Yes, we repair roofs that lost panels, membrane, or shingles to wind, and roofs hit by tree limbs. Take photos for your insurance company before anything is moved.
Yes, this usually happens because the roof was coated without fixing the leak underneath. We find the bad seam, fastener, or vent, repair it, and then recoat or roof over.
Yes, we replace soft decking and can add slope with a roof over so water runs off. Standing water adds weight and wears a roof out fast.
Yes, light surface rust can be wire-brushed, primed, and coated. Metal that has rusted through usually needs a roof over or a new roof.
Yes, we repair and roof over the curved roofs on older homes. Bowstring trusses can't carry much weight, so we keep anything we add to a minimum.
Yes, but they predate the HUD code, so we check the framing before adding weight.
Yes, we build it on its own posts and footings so the home carries none of the weight. It's mainly for homes on private land, and in a park you'd check its rules on roof height first.
Yes, we check the roof above and around the stain, since water often travels before it drips. Poor ventilation can also cause condensation stains.
Put a bucket under the drip, turn off power to the wet area, and don't use a ceiling light if the ceiling around it is wet. If a panel is sagging with water, a small hole at its low point over a bucket lets it drain until we get there.
No, it's best to stay off it. Original roofs are thin metal or membrane over light trusses, and one wrong step can dent, tear, or break through.
No, stay off the roof and use a roof rake from the ground.
No, roofing and coatings need a dry day, and many coatings also need mild temperatures to cure. We schedule around the forecast and cover the roof if the weather turns mid-job.
